Tuesday, November 25, 2014

Spur of the Moment Trip To Joshua Tree National Park and Bighorn Sheep

by Steve Reiss (Dalmdad Landscape Photography - www.dalmdad.com and https://www.facebook.com/Dalmdad.)

It was very spur of the moment that I decided to go an overnight trip to the desert.  We had pretty much just gotten back from China.  But, I got some sudden inspiration to go to Roy's to get some subject matter on the novella/short story I am writing that takes place at Roy's in Amboy.  As I am so infrequently inspired, I forced myself to take advantage of the moment.

Before entering Joshua Tree NP, I decided to browse one of the few gift shops outside the park in Joshua Tree Village near the intersection of CA-62 and Park Blvd.  I was looking for something screaming "bighorn" sheep.  All I could find was a measly ceramic coaster for $8.

This coaster, though hand made in Arizona, cost substantially less than the jade bighorn sheep we brought back from China.

I headed down Park Blvd to the Park's West Entrance.  I pulled out my wallet to prepare to pay the admission fee, but the ranger told me that because it was Veteran's Day, park admission was free today.

Then, not 50 yards in the park and from the park entrance, I saw a ranger with binoculars to his eyes looking out into the field.  And then, like a treat from above, in a clearing to the west, was a large herd of bighorns; our favorite animal.  I think that this was the first time I ever saw any bighorns at Joshua Tree.

I counted about 25 in the herd.  The official Joshua Tree website says that there are only about 250 bighorn sheep in the 1200+ sq. miles that the park covers.  So, this herd was nearly 10 percent the entire park population seen at one time.  What a great sight!.

Bighorn Herd, Seen Nov. 11, 2014


Sunday, November 23, 2014

The Zzyzx Phenomena

by Steve Reiss (Dalmdad Landscape Photography - www.dalmdad.com and https://www.facebook.com/Dalmdad.)

(Note: See our new Desert Studies Center/Zzyzx image album at Flickr.)

Anyone who has looked out their car window while driving in the dull desert between Barstow and Baker on the I-15 have probably noticed the sign for Exit 239 - Zzyzx Road.  The name is so darned mysterious and intriguing that the short road has become a strong magnet to back road and desert explorers.  Zzyzx Road's popularity has led it to even have its own Yelp entry.

The mystery and intrigue may stem from (or have led to) any or all of the following:

  1. The name Zzyzx and the history of the exit area;
  2. The origin of the name Zzyzx;
  3. Two similarly named films produced in the area at around the same time;
  4. The series of songs and albums that have some form of Zzyzx in their title;
  5. Captain Zyzzx (book);
  6. The Narrows (book);
  7. Bighorn Sheep Spotting
 1. The Name Zzyzx and the history of the area (from wiki-footnotes removed).
Zzyzx, California /ˈzzɨks/, formerly Camp Soda and Soda Springs, is a settlement in San Bernardino County, California. It is the former site of the Zzyzx Mineral Springs and Health Spa and now the site of the Desert Studies Center. The site is also the location of Lake Tuendae, originally part of the spa, and now a refuge habitat of the endangered Mohave tui chub.

Zzyzx Road is a 4.5-mile (7.2 km) long, part paved and part dirt, rural collector road in the Mojave Desert. It runs from Interstate 15 generally south to the Zzyzx settlement. The nearest town is Baker, California, 7 miles (11 km) north on I-15. Las Vegas, Nevada is the nearest major city, about 100 miles (160 km) northeast.
Soda Springs, a natural spring, has long seen human activity. The area was a prehistoric quarry site, and projectile points and rock art can be found in the area. The Mojave Road ran past the spring, as did the Tonopah and Tidewater Railroad. Remnants of a wagon road stop and railroad artifacts are readily seen. Evaporative salt mining and mill sites can be found here as well.
Curtis Howe Springer established the Zzyzx Mineral Springs and Health Spa in 1944 at the spot, which was federal land, after filing mining claims for 12,000 acres surrounding the springs. He used the springs to bottle his water and provide drinks for travelers through the hot desert. Springer also imported animals from around the country to attract more families to visit his ranch. He used Zzyzx until 1974, when he was arrested by the United States Marshals for misuse of the land as well as alleged violations of food and drug laws, and the land was reclaimed by the government. Since 1976, the Bureau of Land Management has allowed California State University to manage the land in and around Zzyzx. A consortium of CSU campuses use it as their Desert Studies Center.
 2, Origin of the word  Zzyzx (from wiki-footnotes removed):
The made-up name Zzyzx was given to the area in 1944 by Springer, claiming it to be the last word in the English language.
Word Ways magazine verified the source of the lexicography as an undated San Bernardino County map published by the Automobile Club of Southern California. The magazine characterized Zzyzx Springs as "a hydrologic feature and a privately owned spa catering to the senior citizen, about 8.5 mi (13.7 km) south of Baker on the western edge of Soda Dry Lake, off the abandoned right-of-way of the old Tonopah and Tidewater Railroad."

Zzyzx was approved as a place name by the United States Board on Geographic Names on June 14, 1984. As is the case with the road, Zzyzx, California, is the USBGN's lexicographically greatest (alphabetically last, at least in English alphabetical order) place name.

In this sense, Zzyzx is very similar to that other phrase popular in the desert, in Road-Runner/Coyote cartoons, "Acme", which was intended to be first in any directory:
The name Acme became popular for businesses by the 1920s, when alphabetized business telephone directories such as the Yellow Pages began to be widespread. There were a flood of businesses named Acme (some of these still survive). For example, early Sears catalogs contained a number of products with the "Acme" trademark, including anvils, which are frequently used in Warner Bros. cartoons
....Whenever we played a game where we had a grocery store or something we called it the ACME corporation. Why? Because in the yellow pages if you looked, say, under drugstores, you'd find the first one would be Acme Drugs. Why? Because "AC" was about as high as you could go; it means the best; the superlative.— Chuck Jones
3. The Battle of the Zzyzx Films.

There are two films with names similar to the area.  They are Zyzzx and Zyzzyx Road.  Note that Zyzzyx Road purposely misspell's Zzyzx.

The producers of these two movies got into a comments battle on the IMDB boards.  I hope to summarize the battle at a later time.  However, the crux of the battle was over who's movie was better or worse.

Zzyzx (renamed Burned for some reason) and Zzyzx Road (ZR) are very different movies (summaries from IMDB).

Zzyzx is Zzyzx, the road, may lead to nowhere, but three people find themselves baking in a desert of murder, mystery, manipulation and greed when the legendary road becomes the place where their destinies collide.
IN ZR, :The family man accountant Grant travels to Los Angeles and meets the lascivious "Lolita" Marissa in a casino. While in the motel with Marissa, her violent ex-boyfriend Joey surprises them on the bed, hits Grant on the head, but he kills Joey. Grant brings Joey's body to bury in the desert Zyzzyx Road, but after digging a grave, he finds that the body is missing in the trunk of his car. Grant chases Joey with a shovel in the desert, and when he finds the man hidden in a abandoned mine, Joey discloses a secret about Marissa.
More recently, a movie called The Last Resort (2009) was filmed on-site at the Desert Studies Center (see pictures)The swings, the Castle, and the Pool Enclosure Wall, at the DSC are predominantly shown in te movie.  However, the movie is supposed to take place in Mexico and there is no reference to Zzyzx.

On a stranger tone, a B-movie style internet series FemVamp filmed an episode at the exit.

4, The Zzyzx Songs...

On Spotify.com, I came across a number of songs with Zzyzx in their title, none of which seem to have anything to do with the road.

The list includes:

* the song Zzyzx Rd, by Stone Sour.
* Zzyzx Scarecrow", is a song by the band Stavesacre 
* Zzyzx (album), an album by Zeromancer
* Zzyzx - a song and album by Alphadiabetic - this song is an instrumental.
* ZZYZX - a song by In Desolation, off the album Off with their heads.
* Zzyzx Road, a song by Ivan Ives

5. Captain Zyzzx (book);
Captain Zzyzx is a book by Michael Petracca.

Despite the prominence of Zzyzx in the book's title, Zzyzx only plays a minor role in the story line. However, the book does refer to the compelling feeling passers-by have to stop and explore Zzyzx Road on their way to or from Vegas.

6. The Narrows (book)
The Narrows is a crime novel written by Michael Connelly.

A significant scene in the book takes place at Zzyzx Road.  While I don't want to give spoilers, it is my opinion that it is unlikely what is said to have happened at Zzyzx Road in the scene could.

7.  Bighorn Sheep

Zzyzx Road in the area before the Desert Studies Center is a prime location for spotting bighorn sheep when they water up and mate in April.  I have been there many times to see the bighorns.

 If you have a Zzyzx story, let us know!

Monday, November 17, 2014

Imperial Guardian Lions Guarding What and With Which Paw?

by Steve Reiss (Dalmdad Landscape Photography - www.dalmdad.com and https://www.facebook.com/Dalmdad.)

Amboy, CA - Having traveled throughout China and Taiwan, I have learned about Chinese architecture.  One of my favorite aspects of Chinese architecture are imperial guardian lions (Mandarin: shi).

I was surprised to see two guardian lions guarding much not of anything out in the desert just outside "downtown" Amboy on the south side of US66.  This is the male, the female is to the left of the male outside the frame, as she should be.

Imperial Guardian Lion with Amboy Crater in Background
If you did not know much about imperial guardian lions, you would not have noticed the apparent mistake in this statue.  You need to look close.

As can be seen here, the male lion has its left paw resting on the ball.  This is incorrect.  As said at Wikipedia:
The male lion has its right front paw on a type of cloth ball simply called an "embroidered ball" (xiù qiú, 绣球), which is sometimes carved with a geometric pattern (coincidentally, resembling the figure called "Flower of Life" in the New Age movement).
Here is a photo of a male imperial guardian lion statue photo taken in Wuhan, China.

Ball is under right paw, closest to door (Wuhan, China).

So, whoever went to the trouble of putting those guardian lions out in the Amboy desert, they just quite missed getting it correct.  Oh...as mentioned above, there was a female guardian lion to the left of the male lion, as these lions always come in pairs.  However, I did not notice whether the sculptor had the young lion under the wrong paw of the female.  As can be seen in this photo from the Forbidden City in Beijing, the female lions has a cub under the closer (left) paw to the male.

Lion Cub Under the Left Paw of Female Guardian Lion

Guess I will have to go back to Amboy some time to see if they got this correct.

Saturday, November 15, 2014

What Does Cal Trans Know, Anyway?

by Steve Reiss (Dalmdad Landscape Photography - www.dalmdad.com and https://www.facebook.com/Dalmdad.)

 Along US66, Mojave Desert, CA - A few weeks ago we actually had some rain.  I thought I heard or read somewhere that portions of US66 around Amboy were washed away and would not be repaired for a while.

I wanted to go to Roy's Cafe for a photo shoot, so I checked the Cal Trans website and was informed that US66 was open.


Unfortunately, Cal Trans has no clue about its own highways and their status.

US66 East at Ludlow, CA
US66 East at Kelbaker Road
US66 West - Immediately west of entrance to Amboy Crater
So, basically, Amboy could only be accessed via Kelbaker Road from I-40 or Amboy Road via 29 Palms. 

Anyway, at least Amboy was accessible and I managed to get some nice, original prints (coming soon).

Saturday, September 6, 2014

The Yorba Cemetery - Yorba Linda, California

by Steve Reiss (Dalmdad Landscape Photography - www.dalmdad.com and https://www.facebook.com/Dalmdad.)

 Visiting the Yorba Cemetery is difficult since it is only open 2 hours a month.  The Cemetery is is the second oldest cemetery in Orange County, only pre-dated by the mission cemetery at San Juan Capistrano.

The tour is worth your time, especially if you are interested in the history of Orange County.  The tour leader was a descendent of Bernardo Yorba, one of the most famous of the Californios, and the namesake of the cemetery, all the "Yorba" street names and Yorba Linda, itself.  We were also lucky enough to have some other descendants of the Yorba family on the tour.  The tour gives you a great understanding of what early California life was like.

Information on visiting the cemetery can be found at the OC Parks Page.  If you go, wear a hat, it gets mighty hot out there.

Don Bernardo Yorba - One of the Fathers of Orange County, circa 1800's
Florisa Dominguez, died 1894, age 32

Benigna Peralta (1851-1931)
Jose Negrete (1876-1929) - Local Laborer That Wanted
to Be Buried Overlooking the Train Tracks

A great grandson (still very old) of Sr. Andres de los Reyes Was On the Tour With Us

Frank Apalategui

The Giant Cross that Used to Project Upward
From Ambrosia's Stone is Long Gone

The Children's Corner

Dennis lived less than 6 months

Hanging Holly?

Thursday, September 4, 2014

Driving the June Lake Loop (CA158)

by Steve Reiss (Dalmdad Landscape Photography - www.dalmdad.com and https://www.facebook.com/Dalmdad.)

June Lake, California - I can't believe its almost been a year since I took a long "solo" non-holiday weekend to drive across the Sonora Pass.  Ever since moving to California, I wanted to take the drive across the pass, but it is kind of out of the way and closed due to snow for several months a year.  So, it took me 9 years to finally do the drive.  Yet, despite achieving this personal goal, I wrote so little about the trip; though we have offered a large number of photos taken during that trip for sale on our website, especially of the Stanislaus River rapids and dramatic fall leaves at Lake Sabrina
Leaves Turning at Lake Sabrina
After crossing the pass, there is only one way home; driving down the US395 along the eastern slope of the Sierras. Having done that drive before, from Reno, NV, to Bridgeport, CA, to Mono Lake, to Bodie Ghost Town, to Bishop, and then down the Owens Valley, I did not expect to find any new gems that I had never seen before.  However, I did.  One was Lake Sabrina, in the mountains to the west of Bishop, CA and the other was June Lake Loop.

June Lake Loop is CA-158 in Mono County.  The north and south ends of the 16 mile loop road junction with US395 between Lee Vining and to the north and Mammoth Lakes to the south.

June Lake Loop From the Sky
The loop is at an elevation of around 7621 ft, about 1300 ft above the eastern Sierra valley floor, near Mono Lake.  

While the June Lake Loop encircles several lakes, the most scenic are Grant Lake and June Lake.  Grant Lake is the first lake you come upon when heading south.  Grant lake certainly has that alpine, above the tree line feel about it.

Grant Lake

Grant Lake

Grant Lake

Grant Lake
The temperature drop from the valley floor to lake level is quite noticeable and even more-so when in the shade of the mountains surrounding the lakes.  

In the shade on June Lake Loop
In the Shade of June Lake Loop
The temperature in the area never exceeds 72F.

There is a town of June Lake that acts as the tourist base for the lake.  The town of June Lake's population jumps from 629 to over 3100 during the summer. SR 158 from 3.5 miles north of June Lake to the northern junction with U.S. Highway 395 is closed during winters, typically from mid-December through mid-April.

View of the town of June Lake through the Trees

A lucky meet-up for me happened on this drive around the loop.  The government shutdown of 2013 was in progress and this resulted in most National Park and National Forest locations' restrooms being locked up.  Well, when you have to go, you have to go.  You find a place to pull over, run into the bushes and do your thing.  As I turned off the main road, I almost hit this deer that was crossing the side road.  She was a fine specimen and allowed me to follow her for a short while until her and her doe ran off into the woods.

Fawn and Doe


Tuesday, August 26, 2014

Pavin' the Way - To the Sky Deck at the West Rim - Grand Canyon!

by Steve Reiss (Dalmdad Landscape Photography - www.dalmdad.com and https://www.facebook.com/Dalmdad.)

I recently read somewhere that the final portion of Diamond Bar Road between Dolan Springs and the West Rim of the Grand Canyon has finally been paved.  I don't remember where I read it, but an article was published on line by the LA Times and may have been picked up by the OC Register Sunday travel pages (Sunday is my only newspaper day).

We once tried to go to the Skywalk, but never actually made it there.  The unpaved Diamond Bar Road was just too rough to drive.

Views from Diamond Bar Road

                                                            Views of Dolan Springs


Though the drive is probably much more reasonable due to the new paving, it is unlikely we would ever try going back.  The reasons being that the West Rim and the Skydeck have bad reputations. The facts that:
  1. it is quite expensive to actually go out on the Skywalk; AND
  2. you cannot take your own camera or camera phone onto the Skywalk; AND
  3. therefore requiring you to buy expensive photo packages if you want a remembrance is just too much for many people to swallow. 

Yes, the tribe needs the money.  Yes, other native American sites charge fees.  Monument Valley, UT charge admission fees ($20/vehicle of 4) and commercial photography fees ($50).  Sky City/Acoma Pueblo, NM, charge for camera permits ($13) whether personal or commercial.  Skywalk prices far exceed these other native American sites.

However, if you are in the area, I suggest you taking the Willow Beach cutoff, just south of Hoover Dam on US93.  Just before the road breaks to the right and the parking lots and boat launches, a non-descript turn-off to the left is visible.  Take that turn, fight the rough road, and drive slowly along the wash.  If you are lucky you will get to see bighorn sheep herds roaming around or a lonely burro hiding from the sun.

Good luck!